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Climbing outside for the first time in a while, especially after our winter hibernation in indoor climbing gyms, can feel both exciting and mildly daunting . Indoor walls are largely safe both mentally and physically with colour-coded routes, padded floors, and the ever important coffee machine waiting like a faithful friend in the background. On the rare occasions you pick up an injury, a flock of first aid trained staff can swoop in to offer an ice pack and an accident from, and you're at most a 30 minute ride in a friend's car over to your local A&E.
Outdoors, things are a little less comfortable. The rock isn’t labelled, the ground is uneven and hard, there's horse and sheep poop everywhere (thanks Dartmoor, jk I love you), and you’re suddenly thinking about much more than just clipping the next preinstalled quickdraw.
And that's on a day when the weather is absolutely perfect. Add in a breeze that feels like a gale force 9 storm as soon as you leave the ground, or the sun that glares off the rock baking you like a rotisserie chicken and all of a sudden you're asking yourself why you didn't take up painting… or cheese tasting.
But outdoor climbing is also one of the most rewarding parts of the sport. The rock, the views, the weather (sometimes), and the sense of adventure make it special, and something almost all of us are desperate to get back to at the first decent opportunity in spring.
Devon and the South West have some fantastic climbing. And seeing as though it's currently raining and I got the Devon Bouldering book for Christmas, I thought I'd take you along with me on my list of climbs I wish I were doing right now. (Not just bouldering, I went down a rabbit hole)
Ahem:
1. The Dewerstone
The Dewerstone, just outside Plymouth on Dartmoor, is one of the best known climbing venues in Devon. The granite is solid and the climbing is varied. Many climbers begin here because there are plenty of well-established routes and a strong local climbing community.
Other thing to recommend it are:
Good access paths
Plenty of established routes
Often lots of climbers around if you need advice
2. Chudleigh Rocks
Chudleigh Rocks is another popular crag, especially for beginners. The limestone here offers a different style of climbing compared to Dartmoor’s granite, and you might even get to keep some of your skin.
Other things to recommend it:
Some bolted sport climbs
Access is on private land with agreements in place
Fun beginner friendly short climbs
3. Anstey’s Cove
If you’ve never climbed next to the sea before, Anstey’s Cove is worth a visit. I'm sure by now we've all seen Rest Day (https://restdayfilm.com) set in this beautiful location. The limestone cliffs above the water provide excellent sport climbing with stunning views across Torbay. Many routes are well protected, which makes them appealing to climbers moving outdoors from the gym.
Other things to recommend it:
Solid limestone
Sport routes with bolts
A spectacular coastal setting
(Just remember that coastal weather can change quickly, and the rock can be slippery after rain).
4. Bonehill Rocks
Bonehill Rocks is one of the friendliest venues on Dartmoor for people starting out outside, it was the first place I ever bouldered outside so it's got a special place in my heart as I'm sure it does for many people. It's also got some wonderful trad climbs. The routes here tend to be shorter and easier to protect than at some other Dartmoor crags, which makes it a good training ground.
Other things to recommend it:
Shorter routes
Straightforward gear placements for trad
Beautiful moorland surroundings
Easy access and parking
It’s also a great place to practise placing gear and building anchors, something the club has done here before.
5. Baggy Point
If you want a taste of adventurous climbing, Baggy Point in North Devon could be it. The routes here are longer and often involve a bit more commitment. But the climbing itself can be very accessible.
Other things to recommend it:
Incredible coastal views
Long interesting routes
Solid rock
As with any sea cliff, always be mindful of tides, loose rock, and changing weather.
As always:
Always climb with someone experienced if you’re new to outdoor climbing
Check access arrangements and local guidance
Always leave no trace
Be respectful of other climbers and people sharing the area
Drink your water
Ok, love you, bye
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